India’s colourful festivals run throughout the winter season.PHOTOGRAPHY GEMMA DAY/SPIKEPICTURES.COM
In India, there's an inverse relationship between temperature and tourism. A popular destination in the summer, it draws even more tourists as the mercury descends. When the weather cools off, women take their silk saris and pashminas out of storage, the social season begins and fairs and festivals are celebrated all across the country. Here are some of the highlights:
WHY: The Elephant Festival is held each year in Jaipur, the historic capital of Rajasthan. It celebrates the mighty mammal — a symbol of strength and wealth — and coincides with Holi, the festival of colour. The result is a typically Indian profusion of chaos and colour on a grand scale. The pageant begins with row upon row of gilded and painted elephants parading through Chaugan Stadium, the city’s polo field; continues with races, contests, displays and even an elephant polo match; and ends when some lucky tourists get to play Holi on elephant-back and fling coloured powder at each other. Jai ho!
GET THERE: Jaipur is one of the three stops in the so-called “Golden Triangle” of Indian tourism (the other two being Delhi and Agra, home of the Taj Mahal). It is 260 km from Delhi and well-connected by rail, air and some of the best roads in India.
WHY: If camels are ships of the desert, the great Thar Desert of Rajasthan is an ocean. It is the third-largest desert in Asia — which is why the gangly ungulates are extremely important to the culture and commerce of this beloved Indian state. Bikaner, one of the most remote — and romantic — desert towns in Rajasthan, is a gateway for camel safaris and the host to the annual Camel Festival. Camels can be seen in procession, bedecked in colourful trappings; showing off their agile footwork in dance and acrobatic competitions; and demonstrating their strength in a tug-of-war contest. In the evenings, traditional Rajasthani musicians and dancers perform. Don’t miss the fire dance.
GET THERE: Bikaner is connected by rail and road to the major cities of Rajasthan. The nearest airport is at Jodhpur, 243 km away.
WHAT: Khajuraho Festival of Dances
WHEN: February – March
WHY: Khajuraho is both a ramshackle village in the remote middle of India and a cluster of exquisitely carved 1,000-year-old Hindu temples, justly famous for their daring artistry. The creators of the temples claimed descent from the moon, and the annual Khajuraho Festival of Dances celebrates their divine origins. The seven-day festival attracts the best classical dancers in India, many of whom perform against the spectacular backdrop of the temples, as the moon rises and floodlights bathe the scene in an ethereal glow. Book early; this is one of India’s premier dance events.
GET THERE: Khajuraho is 400 km southeast of Agra and the same distance west of Varanasi. It is best to fly in from either of these cities.
WHY: Bundi is one of those lesser-known places that surprises even seasoned Indiaphiles — like Rudyard Kipling, who lived there and wrote: “The Palace of Bundi is the work of goblins, rather than men.” Bundi’s picturesque setting among the Aravali hills, its medieval walled city, Rajput-style palace and spectacular fort wow visitors who make the effort to get off the beaten track. In art circles, it’s famous for the Bundi School of painting. Each year, this charming south Rajasthani town holds a celebrated heritage and arts festival to present the culture, folklore, traditions and crafts of the region to locals and tourists alike. Events include a turban competition, a wedding-attire pageant, classical music and dance and an arts-and-crafts fair.
GET THERE: Bundi is 210 km by road south of Jaipur, Rajasthan. The nearest railhead is Kota and the nearest airport is Jaipur.
WHAT: The beaches of India
WHEN: All winter
WHY: You may be surprised at the sight of Indians wearing jackets and shawls on winter days, though the temperature is in the high 20s. But it explains why the beaches of India are virtually empty of locals during the winter. Here are a few that are also off the tourist trail: Tarkarli Beach, known for golden sands and aquamarine waters; the secluded beaches of Karnataka, especially those near Gokarn; endless Dahanu Beach, north of Mumbai; and the lovely stretch of Kerala’s coast that lies south of busy Kovalam and is lined with Ayurvedic resorts.
GET THERE: The Konkan Railway runs along the coast from Mumbai in Maharashtra to Mangalore in southern Karnataka and can get you close to Tarkarli and Gokarn. Trains also run north along the coast out of Mumbai towards Gujarat, and can get you close to Dahanu Beach. To get to south Kerala, start from Kerala’s capital, Trivandrum, and travel south below Kovalam.
