Las Vegas, the Entertainment Capital of the World.PHOTOGRAPHY © D. HURST/ALAMY
Despite being in the heart of the Mojave Desert, Las Vegas is one of the most visited cities in the world. Millions of tourists a year migrate to the gambling mecca, where they pray for luck at the tables, party in 30,000-sq.-ft. nightclubs and watch pirates battle, volcanoes erupt and magicians perform sleight of hand. Of course, the real trick when visiting Vegas is to avoid the cliché — herds of fanny-packers, yard-long beers, sequined showgirls — and to avoid going broke. But have no fear: There’s more to the Entertainment Capital of the World than the famous lost wages.
The Las Vegas Hilton.
Where to Stay
Las Vegas has an unofficial motto: Go big. It’s the only way to explain how the largest Hilton in the world, the Las Vegas Hilton — with a 74,000-sq.ft. casino and 200,000-sq. ft. of meeting space — could describe itself as a “hidden gem.” Just a block off the Strip, this deluxe hotel-casino was recently given a $100-million facelift. Its outdoor pool on the third floor offers afternoon happy hours, while its rooms offer stunning views of the Vegas nightlife. And for the world’s Fanilows (fans of crooner Barry Manilow), the Hilton is heaven. He’s been performing at the hotel since 2005, and its shopping centre boasts an entire store devoted to him, including Manilow clothing, music, jewellery — and bobbleheads for the budget-conscious. Earn miles here (or at other Aeroplan Hotel Partners) by showing your Aeroplan Card when you check in.
The Hofbräuhaus in Las Vegas.PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY HOFBRÄUHAUS
Where to Dine
The Strip is lined with celebrity-chef-owned restaurants, but many of them are overrated. Place a safer and cheaper bet: Firefly is a candlelit tapas restaurant on Paradise Road, about a half-mile north of the Hard Rock and a mile east of the Strip. Firefly is popular with locals, and it’s easy to see why. The sangria goes down smooth and the stuffed dates, filet-mignon sliders and camarones a la diabla (spicy shrimp) are delicious. If you’re not in the mood for tapas, try one of the many other authentic ethnic restaurants on Paradise Road, including Marrakech, Origin India and Hofbräuhaus.
The Forum Shops at Caesars Palace.
Where to Shop
Fashion Show is hip, and Town Square is hot, but the Forum Shops at Caesars Palace are an essential Vegas experience. With more than 600,000 sq. ft. and 170 stores and restaurants, including the famed Spago, it’s easy to get lost here — and that’s not a bad thing. The cavernous mall is home to high-end stores (Fendi, Gucci, Louis Vuitton) and more affordable ones (the Gap, American Apparel, Bath & Body Works). Before or after your shopping spree, be sure to check out Caesars itself, one of the older and classier casinos in Las Vegas.
Pinball machines at the Pinball Hall of Fame. PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY PINBALL HALL OF FAME
What to Do
Wall-to-wall machines, blinking lights, alien noises. Yet another casino? Actually, it’s the Pinball Hall of Fame, a non-profit corporation and museum with one of the biggest pinball-machine collections in the world. The 150-plus games, dating from the 1940s to today, have been restored and can be played. Older models are 25 cents per play, newer models 50. The lineup includes old favourites like Bowling Queen (1964) and Creature from the Black Lagoon (1992). Most refreshingly, the Hall — which also features novelty arcade games — isn’t obsessed with turning a profit. Operator Tim Arnold, who was a successful arcade owner in the 1970s and ’80s, donates part of the proceeds to local charities.
What better way to cap a day of sound and spectacle than with an evening of Cirque du Soleil? You can redeem Aeroplan Miles for tickets.
The red sandstone of Nevada’s Valley of Fire State Park.
Where to Detour
Two days in Las Vegas can feel like two weeks. The gambling, the cocktails, the sensory overload and sleep deprivation — it can drive you crazy. You’ll need to get away. Fifty-five miles northeast of the city, Valley of Fire — dedicated in 1935 — is Nevada’s oldest and largest state park. Red sandstone formations, petrified trees and Indian petroglyphs define the park, which is open year-round and has a $6 entrance fee. (Its visitor centre alone is worth the price.) Camping, hiking, picnicking and photography are popular at Valley of Fire State Park, but you’ll want to scramble up a red rock, throw down a blanket and stare at the impossibly blue sky. It’s the perfect counterpoint to a few days in Sin City.
